Puerto Natales, about 3 hours by bus from Punta Arenas (so many Puertos and Puntas around here!) is a trekking mecca. Hardcore trekkers from all over the world converge in this small town to start off their trek around the famous Torres del Paine.
I arrived in Puerto Natales thinking about the trek. I knew for sure that I wasn't going to do the circuit, which is a 7-8 day hike around the whole park. But I did have in mind the "The W" (4-5 days) or something shorter.
Luckily, I was able to get a bed at a hostel in town popular among Lonely Planet readers (and once again, recommended by Gina). Although the rooms were a bit tight, it turned out to be one of the best hostels during my travels - friendly owners (Oregonian hikers!), yummy homemade bread and eggs (whatever style you want!) for breakfast, convenient travel office downstairs, and a free trekking seminar. Trekking 101 (as I called it) provided general info on what to wear, pack, and expect, as well as suggested itineraries.
The trek around Torres del Paine is pretty rough, averaging 15km per day, with some severe weather possibilities. Since I was on my own, I was leaning towards a shorter-than-"The W"-trek. Maybe a 3 day trek, contingent on my being able to get a bed at the refugios.
At the seminar though, I met a Japanese backpacker who invited me to go on "The W" with him. He even offered to carry the tent and cooking equipment for us!!! Yes, that would mean REALLY roughing it. The offer was tempting...I mean, when else would I be able to hike "The W"?!?!?! With a nice, young (mid-20s) Japanese boy might I add...
I contemplated for the rest of the day. Even went along with him to rent the gear and stock up on food.
But...I'm sure you can guess where this is going from the title of this entry...But...in the end, I chickened out.
Reasoning #1 –I've never trekked for more than a day before, and Torres del Paine is definitely not for beginners.
Reasoning #2 – I haven't slept in a tent/sleeping bag since I was in elementary school.
Reasoning #3 – Waru is small. I cannot possibly carry all that equipment (clothing, food, sleeping bag, etc. for 5-6 days) on her own.
Reasoning #4 – After I raised my concerns to the hostel owner (highly experienced trekker), he recommended the day tour of the park, not the hike.
I know I sound a little pathetic, but oh well. It was probably for the best.
Incidentally, I decided not to do the even shorter trek as well, since all the refugios were booked out. Which meant that I would have to carry the tent and sleeping bag throughout the trek. Not something I was in the mood to do.
Conclusion – Only day treks for Waru. And I am DETERMINED to do one somewhere in Patagonia!!!
So, while most of the people at the seminar headed out to trek the following morning, I boarded a minivan for a full day tour. I thought I was going to be the only non-retired person on the tour, but there were others. Good to know that I'm not the only lazy backpacker in Puerto Natales : )
Before heading to the mountains, we made a brief stop at Cueva de Milodon, where a huge sloth apparently made his home many, many years ago. I'd suggest saving the 3,000CHP admission fee for something else.
Especially since the admission for Torres del Paine National Park is a whopping 15,000CHP! OK, that's only around $30, but seems expensive for Chilean standards.
The day tour took me around some of the highlights/viewpoints in the park. I've seen a lot of national parks before, but I'd have to say that this one was extraordinary!!! Breathtaking scenery!!! I think pictures can say a lot more than words (especially given my lack of literary expressionism), so here they are!
A peek of the "towers" (torres) that gave the park its name on the right side:
My only regret in chickening out was that if I had done the trek, I would've been able to get much closer to the towers and had a better view.
Just look at the granite colors!!! Its contrast with the greenery was beautiful.
And the green water!!! I've never seen water this color. 
A short walk to the waterfalls:
Pieces of ice floating at Glacier Grey: 
I was told that this is nothing in comparison to the glaciers I'd be seeing in Argentina. Looking forward to it!
End of tour.
I was supposed to head into Argentina the following day, but because the hostel was too comfortable, I ended up staying an extra night.
Not much to do in Puerto Natales itself, but I found this awesome organic café called El Living. Spent a lot of time there (think twice in 1 day!!!), eating (good food and the all important coffee), chatting, reading, and writing postcards.
I arrived in Puerto Natales thinking about the trek. I knew for sure that I wasn't going to do the circuit, which is a 7-8 day hike around the whole park. But I did have in mind the "The W" (4-5 days) or something shorter.
Luckily, I was able to get a bed at a hostel in town popular among Lonely Planet readers (and once again, recommended by Gina). Although the rooms were a bit tight, it turned out to be one of the best hostels during my travels - friendly owners (Oregonian hikers!), yummy homemade bread and eggs (whatever style you want!) for breakfast, convenient travel office downstairs, and a free trekking seminar. Trekking 101 (as I called it) provided general info on what to wear, pack, and expect, as well as suggested itineraries.
The trek around Torres del Paine is pretty rough, averaging 15km per day, with some severe weather possibilities. Since I was on my own, I was leaning towards a shorter-than-"The W"-trek. Maybe a 3 day trek, contingent on my being able to get a bed at the refugios.
At the seminar though, I met a Japanese backpacker who invited me to go on "The W" with him. He even offered to carry the tent and cooking equipment for us!!! Yes, that would mean REALLY roughing it. The offer was tempting...I mean, when else would I be able to hike "The W"?!?!?! With a nice, young (mid-20s) Japanese boy might I add...
I contemplated for the rest of the day. Even went along with him to rent the gear and stock up on food.
But...I'm sure you can guess where this is going from the title of this entry...But...in the end, I chickened out.
Reasoning #1 –I've never trekked for more than a day before, and Torres del Paine is definitely not for beginners.
Reasoning #2 – I haven't slept in a tent/sleeping bag since I was in elementary school.
Reasoning #3 – Waru is small. I cannot possibly carry all that equipment (clothing, food, sleeping bag, etc. for 5-6 days) on her own.
Reasoning #4 – After I raised my concerns to the hostel owner (highly experienced trekker), he recommended the day tour of the park, not the hike.
I know I sound a little pathetic, but oh well. It was probably for the best.
Incidentally, I decided not to do the even shorter trek as well, since all the refugios were booked out. Which meant that I would have to carry the tent and sleeping bag throughout the trek. Not something I was in the mood to do.
Conclusion – Only day treks for Waru. And I am DETERMINED to do one somewhere in Patagonia!!!
So, while most of the people at the seminar headed out to trek the following morning, I boarded a minivan for a full day tour. I thought I was going to be the only non-retired person on the tour, but there were others. Good to know that I'm not the only lazy backpacker in Puerto Natales : )
Before heading to the mountains, we made a brief stop at Cueva de Milodon, where a huge sloth apparently made his home many, many years ago. I'd suggest saving the 3,000CHP admission fee for something else.
Especially since the admission for Torres del Paine National Park is a whopping 15,000CHP! OK, that's only around $30, but seems expensive for Chilean standards.
The day tour took me around some of the highlights/viewpoints in the park. I've seen a lot of national parks before, but I'd have to say that this one was extraordinary!!! Breathtaking scenery!!! I think pictures can say a lot more than words (especially given my lack of literary expressionism), so here they are!
A peek of the "towers" (torres) that gave the park its name on the right side:
My only regret in chickening out was that if I had done the trek, I would've been able to get much closer to the towers and had a better view.Just look at the granite colors!!! Its contrast with the greenery was beautiful.
And the green water!!! I've never seen water this color. A short walk to the waterfalls:Pieces of ice floating at Glacier Grey: I was told that this is nothing in comparison to the glaciers I'd be seeing in Argentina. Looking forward to it!End of tour.
I was supposed to head into Argentina the following day, but because the hostel was too comfortable, I ended up staying an extra night.
Not much to do in Puerto Natales itself, but I found this awesome organic café called El Living. Spent a lot of time there (think twice in 1 day!!!), eating (good food and the all important coffee), chatting, reading, and writing postcards.
Now, I have a looooong bus ride waiting for me tomorrow. How fun! Not really.
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