About time that I did some real workout! At least for a day...
So, I headed to the small town of El Chalten located in the middle of nowhere. Literally. The place got its first and only ATM less than a month ago!
Back in Ushuaia, Kaori told me that it would be cheaper to buy a bus and accommodation package at one of the two bus companies in El Calafate if I was ever going to El Chalten. I did exactly as told, and was glad that I did – Everyone who got off the bus and headed to my hostel (conveniently located right next to the bus stop) was turned away because they didn't have any free beds. Not only that, I got the bed for half the listed price.
The bus ride was a short 3 hours. The day was pretty clear, so we were treated to a glimpse of the famous Mt. Fitz Roy on our way in! Before entering the park, the bus made a brief stop at the visitors' center where the rangers gave out hiking maps and advice.
Unlike the other national parks in Patagonia that I've gone to so far, El Chalten is free : ) I'm sure that will change in the near future, but for now, you can go into the park, and hike and camp for as many days as you want without paying a single peso! Not that I had any intention to hike for more than a day...
I arrived in town early in the afternoon,
and I spent the rest of the day stocking up on food for my hike tomorrow and simply relaxing. I found this really cute café with delicious coffee and desserts, a perfect place to get cozy and read.
When I walked into my room that evening, the most horrible, disgusting smell shot through my nose. Unbelievably gross!!! The source – one of the guys in my room with foot odor problems!!! He had already washed his feet and apologized, so there really wasn't anything that could've been done to alleviate the situation.
At night, it turned out that he had SERIOUS snoring problems as well. SOOOOO loud, it was quite funny. My other dorm-mates (very friendly British and Hungarian couples) resorted to kicking his bed and throwing pillows at the poor guy to try to stop the snoring. No effect. We all just erupted in laughter!!! But he still didn't stop. In the end, the British girl managed to wake him up by yelling in his ear. We all took that brief moment of peace, while he was awake, to fall asleep.
Now the main topic – HIKING.
There are three main routes in the park that go to various viewpoints and lakes. I decided on the most popular one, a 25km trek (round trip) to Laguna de los Tres.
It wasn't the best weather, but I couldn't be picky – I had only this one day to hike. So, with cold weather gear, camera, water, and food (ham, cheese, cucumber, bread, and chocolates) in hand, I headed out to the trail early in the morning.
The path was pretty well marked and not too steep for the most part. I admit, though, that I got a bit concerned at times, being all alone in the forest with not one other human being in sight, thinking that maybe I took the wrong turn somewhere. However, if I slowed down and stood around in one area for a while, someone eventually came along. Relief.
Almost midway through the hike, I passed by the Mirador Fitz Roy (viewpoint).
As you can tell, I didn't get a view : ( Slightly disappointed...
Continuing on, I hiked through some beautiful woods and rivers. Calm. Peace. Nature. Very pleasant.
Until I got to the last few kilometers of the trail. After the small camping area, I encountered a steep incline right in front of my face. Damn it. 1-2km of steep, straight climbing on rocky surfaces ahead of me. Damn it. It started to sleet, too. Damn it. I was moving along so smoothly up until this point. But this last part took me like 2 hours!!!
And guess who I ran into on my way up?!?!?! When I was tired and grouchy. Mr. FA from Ushuaia and the other guy he was supposed to pay for! Oh great. I chatted a bit with the latter, but I completely ignored Mr. FA. Remember, FA = F*cking A*shole.
Anyways, huffing and puffing, I slowly made it to the top. The most beautiful views awaited me!
The deep, turquoise waters set again the snow-flecked, granite rocks...Wow.
(Mt. Fitz Roy is somewhere in the back) I made my sandwich up there and had the best picnic ever!!! Well, maybe not "best ever"...I mean, it probably could've been improved if I had company (preferably of the opposite sex) along with me. And if the weather had been better. I know, wishful thinking. I do that a lot.
From there, I walked along the trail for a little bit longer to reach the cliffs for a view of another lake.
Awesome. I might actually like this one better than the first.
Before heading back down, I waited around to see if the weather would clear up. But nope. Not my lucky day today. Oh well.
I sprinted my whole way back (have no clue why), and made it back to town by 5pm. My body was sore, but I was energized at the same time. On some sort of adrenaline high, I guess. Not wanting to stay up in my room, especially with the smelly feet, I went back to the café for a cup of coffee and apple pie. Delightful!
At night, the British and Hungarian couples invited me to join them for some handmade pizza and warm chocolate cake. I'd already eaten, but had some more anyways. Hehe. Two desserts, after 25km of hiking, is OK, right?!?!?!
Final comment – For the first time in a while, I felt like I accomplished something today. Weird. I should do this hiking thing more often. Especially on those days that I feel like a loser...
So, I headed to the small town of El Chalten located in the middle of nowhere. Literally. The place got its first and only ATM less than a month ago!
Back in Ushuaia, Kaori told me that it would be cheaper to buy a bus and accommodation package at one of the two bus companies in El Calafate if I was ever going to El Chalten. I did exactly as told, and was glad that I did – Everyone who got off the bus and headed to my hostel (conveniently located right next to the bus stop) was turned away because they didn't have any free beds. Not only that, I got the bed for half the listed price.
The bus ride was a short 3 hours. The day was pretty clear, so we were treated to a glimpse of the famous Mt. Fitz Roy on our way in! Before entering the park, the bus made a brief stop at the visitors' center where the rangers gave out hiking maps and advice.
Unlike the other national parks in Patagonia that I've gone to so far, El Chalten is free : ) I'm sure that will change in the near future, but for now, you can go into the park, and hike and camp for as many days as you want without paying a single peso! Not that I had any intention to hike for more than a day...
I arrived in town early in the afternoon,
and I spent the rest of the day stocking up on food for my hike tomorrow and simply relaxing. I found this really cute café with delicious coffee and desserts, a perfect place to get cozy and read.When I walked into my room that evening, the most horrible, disgusting smell shot through my nose. Unbelievably gross!!! The source – one of the guys in my room with foot odor problems!!! He had already washed his feet and apologized, so there really wasn't anything that could've been done to alleviate the situation.
At night, it turned out that he had SERIOUS snoring problems as well. SOOOOO loud, it was quite funny. My other dorm-mates (very friendly British and Hungarian couples) resorted to kicking his bed and throwing pillows at the poor guy to try to stop the snoring. No effect. We all just erupted in laughter!!! But he still didn't stop. In the end, the British girl managed to wake him up by yelling in his ear. We all took that brief moment of peace, while he was awake, to fall asleep.
Now the main topic – HIKING.
There are three main routes in the park that go to various viewpoints and lakes. I decided on the most popular one, a 25km trek (round trip) to Laguna de los Tres.It wasn't the best weather, but I couldn't be picky – I had only this one day to hike. So, with cold weather gear, camera, water, and food (ham, cheese, cucumber, bread, and chocolates) in hand, I headed out to the trail early in the morning.
The path was pretty well marked and not too steep for the most part. I admit, though, that I got a bit concerned at times, being all alone in the forest with not one other human being in sight, thinking that maybe I took the wrong turn somewhere. However, if I slowed down and stood around in one area for a while, someone eventually came along. Relief.
Almost midway through the hike, I passed by the Mirador Fitz Roy (viewpoint).
As you can tell, I didn't get a view : ( Slightly disappointed...Continuing on, I hiked through some beautiful woods and rivers. Calm. Peace. Nature. Very pleasant.
Until I got to the last few kilometers of the trail. After the small camping area, I encountered a steep incline right in front of my face. Damn it. 1-2km of steep, straight climbing on rocky surfaces ahead of me. Damn it. It started to sleet, too. Damn it. I was moving along so smoothly up until this point. But this last part took me like 2 hours!!!
And guess who I ran into on my way up?!?!?! When I was tired and grouchy. Mr. FA from Ushuaia and the other guy he was supposed to pay for! Oh great. I chatted a bit with the latter, but I completely ignored Mr. FA. Remember, FA = F*cking A*shole.
Anyways, huffing and puffing, I slowly made it to the top. The most beautiful views awaited me!
The deep, turquoise waters set again the snow-flecked, granite rocks...Wow.
(Mt. Fitz Roy is somewhere in the back) I made my sandwich up there and had the best picnic ever!!! Well, maybe not "best ever"...I mean, it probably could've been improved if I had company (preferably of the opposite sex) along with me. And if the weather had been better. I know, wishful thinking. I do that a lot.From there, I walked along the trail for a little bit longer to reach the cliffs for a view of another lake.
Awesome. I might actually like this one better than the first.Before heading back down, I waited around to see if the weather would clear up. But nope. Not my lucky day today. Oh well.
I sprinted my whole way back (have no clue why), and made it back to town by 5pm. My body was sore, but I was energized at the same time. On some sort of adrenaline high, I guess. Not wanting to stay up in my room, especially with the smelly feet, I went back to the café for a cup of coffee and apple pie. Delightful!
At night, the British and Hungarian couples invited me to join them for some handmade pizza and warm chocolate cake. I'd already eaten, but had some more anyways. Hehe. Two desserts, after 25km of hiking, is OK, right?!?!?!
Final comment – For the first time in a while, I felt like I accomplished something today. Weird. I should do this hiking thing more often. Especially on those days that I feel like a loser...
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