I met up with my friend on Wednesday for lunch, and we started talking about needing a break at an onsen (hot springs). We reminisced about our investment banking days waaaaay back, and remembered that a colleague highly recommended Tamagoyu. Didn't know much about it, except that the hot springs there had excellent mineral contents. A travel agency was miraculously nearby for us to take a look. After 10 seconds of debating, we booked a trip for the next day. Being a weekday, the rooms were available (supposedly hard to get a booking on the weekends) and we even got a slight discount for our last minute planning. Even better : )
From Tokyo station, we boarded the bullet train for Fukushima, taking slightly less than 2 hours. We had some time before the scheduled bus pick-up, so ended up exploring the station area. Not very happening…the usual station-front stores. Good enough for a coffee and a quick lunch, though.
Back at the bus stop, I was surprised to see that we weren't the only non-retired ones waiting. Didn't think that many people would head out to the rural countryside on the weekdays… Anyways, after driving on curvy roads thru the mountains for about 30 minutes, we arrived at the Tamagoyu Ryokan. There are other inns around the area, probably with similar quality hot springs, but this is the most famous.
I have to admit that the inn itself wasn't anything remarkable. The first thing I noticed, in fact, was the age!!! This place is quite old…so don't expect any modern amenities!!! Perhaps, there are better rooms but we had the very basic, ground floor, Japanese tatami room.
Of course, the rooms shouldn't really matter here. As the purpose is in enjoying the hot springs!!!!!!
Which we went to explore immediately after getting our welcome tea/snacks and introduction from the Okami.
After changing into our yukatas, we headed out. We initially intended to walk the short walking course around the inn, but decided not to, after seeing that the first part was uphill and along the forest. Given that we were in our yukatas and slippers, probably not the smartest thing to do.
No problem. Lets just hit the hot springs!!!
There are several baths at the inn, but the oldest and most popular is the Tamagoyu itself. In this building (maybe hut?) on the right. As you might have guessed, the name comes from the rotten egg smell of the springs. Love it!!! This particular bath is supposedly about 150 years old, which somewhat shows in the ancient wooden framework. Not sure about the sanitary conditions, but ignorance is bliss. The water here is very, very hot…I couldn't stay in the bath for more than a minute!!! In, out, in, out, repeat…
Having turned red and warmed to the core, we headed to the outdoor baths before dinner. Only a quick dip, since we'd be back for this at night.
Dinner:
Yum, yum, yum!!! Chicken hot pot was the main course. Serving size was perfect, that I got to finish everything.
Then, back to the outdoor springs at night, as promised:
Absolutely beautiful!!!!!!!
Good night…..Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz…..
Breakfast:
I love salted salmon. We had quite an early breakfast so we could spend more time at the baths in the morning, before check-out.
So nice, so nice, so nice.
See how creamy blue the water is!!!!!
(Apologies in advance for the ugly, fat foot, but I thought it would provide better contrast. Hehe) Not sure if you can see, but there are all these white minerals floating around as well.
Lovely, lovely, lovely!!!
We must've spent over an hour in the various baths, and ended with the foot bath here:
Definitely planning to come back.