After another long, hot, slow train ride (starting with a train to Bucharest at 5 in the morning!), I arrived in Veliko Tarnovo. The station was a few km from the city center, but luckily, I met an American aboard who agreed to stay with one of the hotel touts at the station if he drove me to the center : )
Veliko Tarnovo is a picturesque, small town sitting on a gorge. Because of its well-known citadel, I thought there would be a lot of tourists. But as it turned out, I had the whole hostel to myself...Cool! After doing some grocery shopping, I spent the rest of the evening cooking up some dinner and lounging in the hostel's very cozy common room. View from window:
Early the following morning, I headed into town and the citadel. 
The town has narrow, cobble-stoned streets twisting along the gorge. It was sort of like a maze, fun to walk through! The center of town was dotted with traditional workshops (like this cutlery one) and outdoor cafes, where I had a relaxing cup of coffee and pancakes.
The citadel, however, was a huge disappointment. Besides providing some good scenery, it had little to offer. I don't think it was worth the admission fee (they didn't even check the tickets!) Perhaps it would've been better if I had a guide to explain the ruins...
By mid-afternoon, I was done with Veliko Tarnovo, and so hopped onto a bus for Bulgaria's capital, Sofia.
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